ITALY - San Gimignano and the Tuscan Countryside

Nestled in the heart of Tuscany, San Gimignano is a enchanting medieval town that captivates visitors with its rich history, stunning architecture, and breathtaking landscapes. Known as the "Medieval Manhattan" for its iconic skyline of ancient towers, this picturesque town is like stepping back in time. 

Similar to Carcarsonne in France, the walled city is free of cars and visitors are free to wander the cobblestone streets, exploring its towers, and enjoying the breathtaking views of the surrounding Tuscan countryside make it an unforgettable destination. Driving to San Gimignano was a highlight in itself, The road winds gently through the Tuscan countryside, offering glimpses of terracotta-roofed farmhouses nestled among olive groves.

We first enjoyed a delicious lunch of spaghetti, accompanied by a local red wine. It was at this restaurant where the American tourists who were sitting next to us, made the point to say how well behaved our girls are. I think it was because Rooney was making us all giggle with her impression of ‘Sassy Girl’ one of her personas. 

After lunch, we explored the streetS and had a look in the many shops, some were more touristy than others. One highlight was stumbling across a local modern Art Gallery. It was free and filled with some really unique art works. Farley particularly liked it, after visiting the Uffizi Galleries in Florence, which was full of Renaissance masters, it was a nice contrast and interestingly more engaging for Farley. 

Gelateria Dondoli is a gelato shop that sits in the central Piazza della Cisterna. It boosts it’s award winning status and had a continuous line of people lined up, spilling out into the piazza. We bought into the hype and had to try some gelato for ourselves. The gelato was definitely worth the wait! Really delicious, with lots of flavours to choose from.

Spending a day in the enchanting town of San Gimignano felt like stepping right into a beautifully preserved piece of history. I was immediately taken in by the stunning medieval architecture, the delicious food, and those breathtaking Tuscan landscapes that seemed to stretch endlessly.

On a more humourous note, when we told the girls that we were doing a day trip to San Gimignano, the conversation when like this:

Me: San Gimignano is similar to Carcassone.

The girls: What’s Carcassone?

Me: You know, the medieval walled city we visited in France?

The girls: Oh yeah, the place were we got those candy necklaces.

Me: hmmm, yes, thats the place. ** slightly disappointed and slightly amused that was the most memorable thing about Carcassone**

The girls: Can we get another candy necklace?

ITALY - Art History for Kids in Florence

Florence, the capital of Italy’s Tuscany region, boasts numerous masterpieces of Renaissance art and architecture. Among its most famous landmarks is the Duomo, a cathedral featuring a terracotta-tiled dome designed by Brunelleschi and a bell tower crafted by Giotto. We took a day trip to Florence while staying in Tuscany, as it was just a brief train ride from the closest station to our holiday park, Figline Valdarno.

Here’s our itinerary for a family-friendly day in Florence.

We made our way from the train station to the stunning Cathedral di Santa Maria del Fiore, known for its striking red dome and the intricate Giotto’s bell tower.

Entry to the main area of the Cathedral (Duomo) in Florence is free, allowing visitors to explore the interior without needing a ticket. However, access to certain attractions within the complex, such as climbing the Bell Tower or Dome, or visiting the Crypt, Baptistery, and Museum, does require a ticket.

Even with free admission to the Cathedral, we encountered a wait of at least an hour, which we felt was too long for the kids. Instead, we decided to relax at one of the many nearby cafes, enjoying coffee, juices, and croissants. The exterior of the Duomo is so intricately detailed that it remains a breathtaking sight. Although I’m sure the Last Judgment frescoes by Vasari and Zuccari inside the dome are undoubtedly worth the wait and the price if your kids are up for it.

We booked tickets to the Leonardo Da Vinci Interactive Museum, which I knew would be enjoyable for the girls. This museum is dedicated to recreations of the machines and mechanisms that Leonardo Da Vinci designed and documented in his renowned codices.

Visitors can interact with and operate many of these creations, making it a truly hands-on experience to learn about Da Vinci. There are even puzzle tables and areas where you can design a bridge, construct a self-supporting dome, or assemble the Polyhedrals. Additionally, there are rooms featuring reproductions of Da Vinci's famous paintings, including the Mona Lisa and The Last Supper. The ticket prices were quite reasonable at €7.90 for adults and €6.90 for children, and the timed entries ensured it didn't feel overly crowded. It was a fantastic way to introduce the girls to Leonardo Da Vinci and the Renaissance history of Florence.

After the Leonardo Da Vinci Interactive Museum we walked to the Piazza della Signoria where a replicate of the Michaelango’s Statue of David stands in front of the Palazzo Vecchio (the real Statue of David is inside the Accademia Galleries which you can visit with an admission ticket) Next to the Palazzo Vecchio is the Loggia dei Lanzi where you can observe a number of other marble statues free of charge. The girls recognised the names of Hercules (who is depicted fighting a centaur named Nessus) and Perseus and Medusa from their interest in myths and legends. However, upon reflects these statues are very gruesome, and depict some shocking things, you may want to gloss over the descriptions for younger kids.

From Piazza della Signoria, we took a short stroll to the Ponte Vecchio, the famous bridge spanning the Arno River. This iconic structure is adorned with jewellery and art shops. While walking across is free, be prepared for the crowds that make capturing good photos quite challenging.

I bought tickets for Farley and me to explore the Uffizi Galleries, located near the Ponte Vecchio and Palazzo Vecchio. This remarkable venue houses some of the most renowned artworks, including Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus and Primavera, Leonardo Da Vinci’s Adoration of the Magi and Annunciation, as well as Michelangelo’s Doni Tondo. Farley has a passion for painting and drawing, so it was really special to introduce her to a slice of art history in Florence, the home of many Renaissance masters. Plus, spending some one-on-one time together is always valuable.

I’m certain Hallie and Rooney would have enjoyed the art gallery as well, but we had to weigh the cost of admission against their level of interest. Instead, they spent an hour or so exploring bookshops and toy stores with Braino.

One location we overlooked, but I would highly recommend to others, is Piazzale Michelangelo. Here, you’ll find a bronze replica of Michelangelo’s David along with a breathtaking panoramic view of the city—arguably the best vantage point for the Cathedral di Santa Maria del Fiore. While it requires a bit of a walk across the river, it is accessible via the hop-on-hop-off bus route if you choose to go with that option. The sunset view on a sunny day would be absolutely stunning, though a zoom lens might be necessary to capture a stunning photo.

In summary, while I believe we made the most of our day in Florence, providing the girls with an educational experience, it was here that I thought, "Wow, the crowds are overwhelming!" Of course, we are tourists ourselves, so we can't really complain, but I was taken aback by the sheer number of people queuing at the cathedral and in the streets around the Ponte Vecchio. We visited in the later part of September, which is typically the tail end of the busy tourist season.

ITALY - Grape Picking and Wine Making in Tuscany

Tuscany is famous for its vineyards and wineries, with wine tasting tours being a very popular thing to do while in the area. The holiday park, Norcenni Girasole, organised weekly wine tours with a bus driver, travelling to all the nearby wineries in the area. However, neither Braino or myself are big fans of wine, so we were thrilled when we found a family friendly winery experience. 

Palagina, a nearby winery that is also home to a restaurant, accommodation and event space, was holding their annual grape harvesting festival, where families could come out for the morning, help harvest grapes and learn about the wine making process. 

This was such a fun, unique hands on learning experience for the whole family, it’ll definitely be remembers as one of the highlights of the trip. The girls loved being able to cut the grapes off the vines, taste them and then learn about how to squeeze the juice out with their own hands. 

After about an hour of harvesting the grapes in the vineyard, we went down to the shed where we saw all the grapes that had been harvest get put into a machine that separated all the grapes from the stems and leaves. We were able to have a look at all the vats and all the other equipment used to make wine. 

All the kids in the group were able to design their own winery labels, where they could then fill up a bottle of wine from a barrel, cork it and then stick the label on. We got just the one bottle and girls shared the task of designing the label. 

Probably one of the most memorable parts of the day was chatting to another family in our group who were from Chicago and who were doing three months abroad in Italy. Their kids, 2 boys and a girl, were slightly older in age to our girls, their youngest daughter was probably Farley or Hallies age. They were incredibly chatty and it was great to discuss travel plans with a like minded family. But it was somewhat strange to just part ways without exchanging details or making plans to meet up again. 

In an ironic turn of events, I drank some the wine for dinner, maybe only a glass and a half and woke to the next day with a shocking headache. I’m guessing the winery didn’t use their top quality wine in the bottles the harvest festival guests purchased for cheap.

GREECE - Stunning Caldera Views in Santorini

We couldn't possibly visit Greece without experiencing the breathtaking cliffside villages of Santorini firsthand, and it was truly worth it.

We booked a two-night stay in a traditional cave house located in Oia, the northernmost town of the island. Our accommodation at Menia’s Cave House offered a spectacular caldera view from the balcony of our two-bedroom suite. Breakfast was included and conveniently delivered right to our door.

Santorini is a small island that was once a volcano, with high cliffs forming a ring around the ancient caldera (the volcano's crater). It's remarkable how steep the cliffs are in the main towns of Oia (pronounced e-a) and Thira, where the whitewashed houses cling to the cliffside, overlooking the tranquil waters below.

We had a full day to explore, plus the morning and afternoon on either side, and we took it easy, simply soaking in the views.

The streets of Oia can become quite crowded with tourists arriving from the many cruise ships moored in the caldera. However, the narrow pathways winding past our accommodation remained quiet and secluded. We took a walk to the Castle of Oia, which offers the best sunset views to the west. There are a few popular photo spots, like the three blue-domed churches, but be prepared to wait about 30 minutes to capture the iconic shot with yourself in it.

I woke up early one morning to stroll the streets of Oia, mainly to take photos, and I was surprised to see many other dedicated photographers and their clients out and about, including Brides and Grooms.

We had purchased new dresses specifically for our Santorini trip, as it felt like a place that deserved a little extra effort beyond our usual clothes. The girls enjoyed dressing up in their Santorini outfits, and I quickly noticed that nearly every woman in Oia had the same idea and was wearing a similarly coloured blue dress. Definitely a vibe!

A family of adorable kittens lived nearby, and the girls were absolutely enchanted by watching them, which kept them entertained throughout our stay. The cave house featured a large indoor Jacuzzi, where the girls loved splashing around in the evenings. Many neighbouring cave houses also had small outdoor Jacuzzis which I would recommend priorizing for other families. Braino wished he could enjoy the view from an outdoor spa.

Naturally, Oia is quite pricey when it comes to accommodations, dining, and getting around Santorini. We had pre-arranged for a driver from our accommodation to pick us up from the ferry terminal and take us to the airport on our departure day. He shared that there are over 4,000 hotel transfer vehicles on the island but only 70 taxis. There is a local bus service that operates around the island, but its schedule is quite limited.

While our main priority was to relax and enjoy the views, with the girls happily occupied watching the local kittens, if we had stayed longer, I would have aimed to visit:

• The Lost Atlantis Interactive Experience

• The Akrotiri Archaeological Site

• The Black Sand Beach of Perissa and Perivolos

Hiring a car or a private driver would have been the ideal way to explore these southern destinations in Santorini. Perhaps next time!

Overall, I understand why Santorini is a popular honeymoon destination, and I am incredibly grateful to have experienced it as a family.

GREECE - The Must See, Family Friendly Island of Naxos

Naxos is the largest island of the Cyclades and from what I had read, it’s one of the more family friendly islands. Santorini and Mykonos are the most well known tourist destinations, especially with the frequent cruise ships. And while Naxos does have it’s own airport, it felt very laid back and easy to navigate on foot. We had four full days on the island and were able to set a leisurely pace to explore the beaches, old town area and restaurants.

The view of Naxos from the Temple fo Apollo 

Where We Stayed

We had the pleasure of staying at Anatolia Hotel, a welcoming family-run establishment conveniently located near the vibrant centre of Naxos. The husband and wife owners, along with their children and extended family members, created a warm and inviting atmosphere that made us feel at home. Our two-bedroom suite was comfortable, although it did not have a kitchen. However, the generous breakfast provided each morning more than made up for it. We also enjoyed the pool and outdoor lounge area, where the resident cats often joined us during our meals.

Things to Do on Naxos

For two days, we enjoyed the nearby St. George Beach, an easy walk from our hotel. We rented loungers at a beach club, which enhanced our experience significantly. The clear waters and sandy shores were perfect for relaxation, while the kids played happily. The service was attentive, with waiters bringing drinks and snacks directly to us, making for a pleasant beach day.

St George Beach

St George Beach 

Sphinx of Naxos

We visited the Temple of Apollo Portara, located on a picturesque peninsula. A brief hike took us to this remarkable site, which is free to explore. The views of Naxos from here are stunning. It's does get very busy at sunset but it’s an unmissable spot to view the sun dip below the mountains of Paros.

The Temple of Apollo Portara 

Sunset from the Temple of Apollo Portara

The lively Chora, or Old Town, is filled with a variety of restaurants and shops. We enjoyed wandering through its winding streets, discovering unique stores along the way. The ancient Kastro is a highlight, and it also contains an archaeology museum worth visiting. The girls particularly enjoyed spotting the many friendly stray cats that roam the area.

Streets of the Old Town 

Streets of the Old Town 

Street of the Old Town

Restaurants in the main town 

One day, we rented a car to explore the hilltop villages of Naxos. The views were breathtaking, and the scenery resembled a postcard, however, I’d say a guided tour would be beneficial for learning about the local agriculture and culture. We aimed to visit Plaka Beach but took a wrong turn, leading us through a small village and onto a rugged dirt road. After a humorous detour, we eventually returned to our hotel for some much-needed rest.

Naxos left a lasting impression on us, and we look forward to returning. The local cuisine and laid-back atmosphere were truly enjoyable.

GREECE - Three Days in Athens with Kids

We were absolutely loved our time in Greece! Greece had been on my bucket list forever, so finally touching down was a dream come true. We flew in from Venice, leaving our hire car at Marco Polo Airport’s secure parking, and set off for four fabulous nights in Athens. We settled in Neos Kosmos, just a hop, skip, and a jump from the iconic Acropolis, in a cozy two-bedroom apartment that felt like home.

Our first afternoon was spent at the Acropolis! Seeing the Parthenon perched majestically on its rocky throne was nothing short of breathtaking. Sure, it was a bit crowded, and the front was dressed in scaffolding, but the awe factor was still through the roof!

We pruchased our tickets from a the Hellenic Heritage Website and opted for a late afternoon visit around 4:00 PM—a good move to dodge the intense but welcomed heat. We scored our tickets the day before without a hitch! If you're a morning person eyeing that coveted 9 AM slot, though, plan ahead because they vanish faster than a gelato on a hot day!

Oh, and right next to the Acropolis, there’s the Acropolis Museum. We decided to skip it to save some euros and gauge the girls' excitement levels, but I’ll admit, a tiny part of me wishes we’d gone in!

The Parthenon atop the Acropolis 

The Porch of the Maidens 

The Parthenon atop the Acropolis 

Odeon of Herodes Atticus

The view of the Acropolis from Areopagus Hill

On day two, we ventured to Lycbettus Hill, hopping on the funicular to soak in jaw-dropping views of the Acropolis and the maze of Athens below. Next, we wandered through the Ancient Agora of Athens, where the Temple of Hephaestus stole my heart.

We then meandered through Plaka, a touristy treasure trove filled with quirky shops and vintage finds. Don't miss the Roman Forum of Athens and Hadrian’s Library while you’re in the neighbourhood!

The view of the Acropolis from Lycbettus Hill

The Temple of Hephaestus at the Ancient Agora of Athens 

The view of the Acropolis from the Ancient Agora of Athens 

The Ancient Agora of Athens 

On day three, we decided to hit the beach. Our first stop was Voula Beach, where we wrestled with the beach club scene and their pricey lounge chairs. But not to worry! The second beach, just a hop from the Edem tram stop, was a gem. With a chill beachside restaurant and free public access, we enjoyed a blissful afternoon of lunch and swimming. If you're in central Athens, this beach is an easy, breezy escape!

Lunch at The Place Beach Bar and Restaurant ( next to Edem Tram stop) 

Voula Beach

Edem Beach 

ITALY - Leaning into the Tourist Vibes of Pisa

While we stayed in the Tuscany area, we planned a day trip to Pisa to see the iconic Leaning Tower of Pisa.

Originally, we planned to stop off in Pisa on our way from La Spezia to our accommodation in Norcenni Girosole, which would have been a good option but we decided to dedicate a full day to the trip during our stay in Tuscany instead.

Even though I have visited Italy before, that trip didn’t include Pisa. And I must admit, I had pretty low expectations. I envisioned Pisa to be underwehelming and very touristy. But I was pleasantly surprised by how much we did enjoy visiting the Leaning Tower and the town of Pisa overall.

Yes, there were a lot of our tourists all attempting to get the perfect photos of themselves holding up the tower. And yes we did it ourselves, the girls were really excited about it. It was actually pretty fun in a silly sort of way! I think Farley’s photos turned out the best.

The tower is a part of the Piazza del Duomo which includes the Pisa Cathedral and the Pisa Baptistry. The photos don’t really do them justice; all the buildings have a stunning amount of detail, so ornate and beautiful.

We decided to forgo any of the ticketed experiences like climbing the tower or going inside the cathedral or baptistry. Interesting, children have to be over the age of 8 to climb to the top of the Leaning Tower so it would have only been Farley who was able to do it. It’s upwards of 25 euro per person to go inside the tower and the cathedral, so the cost would have added up quickly for all 5 of us. It’s totally free to walk around the Piazza Del Duomo and view the exteriors of all the buildings, that was sufficient for us.

Afterwards, we had lunch at a nearby restaurant on Via Santa Maria where we all chose a delicious traditional pasta dish. Via Santa Maria is the street that leads to the Piazza Del Duomo and has plenty of restaurant options. Being so close to a tourist destination, we were expecting to pay a premium, but we’re happy to report the prices seemed quite reasonable.

We parked our car a little bit outside the main area of town, near Ponte della Vittoria and we really enjoyed walking along the river and through the shopping area of Pisa to get to the Piazza del Duomo. It’s a really walkable city centre and it felt quite safe and authentic - not as touristy and crowded as I had imagined.

ITALY - Two weeks in Tuscany at the Most Epic Holiday Park

After Cinque Terre and La Spezia we stayed for two weeks in a holiday park in the Tuscany hills. Norcenni Girosole is an incredible holiday park under the HU brand, located near Florence in the hills of Tuscany.

It’s a sprawling village of holiday facilities, including multiple swimming pools, restaurants, cafes, activities and even a small supermarket.  If you’re familiar with the Big 4 style of holiday parks in Australia, imagine that but times x 100. 

We decided to book two weeks there as we found a ‘to good to be true’ deal during the Black Friday sales in 2023 - we stayed in a 3 bedroom cabin and it was so cheap considering the prices includes use to all the pools. 

The park is only open from April - October and closes down for the winter. We arrived in mid September and were a little disappointed to discover that the park was winding down for the season, which meant that half the pools (the ones located in the top half of the village ) were closed. And there wasn’t a lot of the kids club activities, shows or fitness activities happening.  

But it did mean that there wasn’t a lot of people around, it looks likes it’s extremely busy in the summer months. 

The girls loved swimming in the pools and going down the slides. The water in the pools was a little too cold for me but we had some warm sunny days were we could enjoy the water parks and relax in the sun.

One of the highlights of our time at Norcenni Girosole was the low ropes course that included a zip line. Hallie was very keen to try it but we were surprised when Farley put her hand up for it too. Farley usually doesn’t like heights or wobbly parts of playgrounds so it took Braino and I by surprise when she said she wanted to give it a go. We were so proud of all the girls for completing the course, including the zipline, but it was very special to see Farley challenge herself and overcome her fears. 

While we were at Norcenni Girosole we did a day trip to Pisa, a day trip to Florence, a day trip to San Gimignano and then two nights in Rome, which we travelled to by train. We also did a morning at a local winery where we got to harvest some grapes and learnt about the wine making process, which was really fun. I’ll share more about these trips in  there down individual blog posts. 

ITALY - Cinque Terre, Rustic Villages Along the Rugged Coastline

Visiting Cinque Terre was an absolute dream come true. What an extraordinary, magical location. I’m so grateful we were able to spend a full day exploring as a family, the kids enjoyed themselves and had a great time despite it not being the most kid friendly place.

Cinque Terre translates to ‘five lands’ and that names derives from the five towns that are within the Cinque Terre National Park area. Five towns are: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore.

Vernazza

Where we stayed:

We stayed in La Spezia for two nights and dedicated one full day to exploring the towns of Cinque Terra by train. La Spezia is the nearest large town to Cinque Terre, with a main train station that is connected to other major towns like Florence. I quite liked the vibe of La Spezia, it was lively with lots of shopping, cafes and restaurants. We stayed in an apartment in a central location where we could walk to the train station, however, parking was a nightmare, we had to leave our car parked about a 20 min walk away.

Manarola

Monterosso al Mare

Vernazza

Manarola

Our itinerary for our day exploring Cinque Terre: 

We first caught the train from La Spezia to Monterosso al Mare, which is the furtherest of the five towns from La Spezia. From there we worked our way back towards La Spezia, visiting a total of four of the fove towns.

Monterosso has the best beach for swimming, with a long stretch of sand in front of the town. We dedicated a bit of time for swimming here and the girls loved swimming in the calm, warm water. There are a number of beach clubs where you can rent a beach lounge and umbrella but we found the public section and just parked up on the sand, along with many others. 

Afterwards we did a little walk along the shoreline and through the tunnel to another beach sections. We then jumped back on the train and went one stop back in the direction of La Spezia to Vernazza. 

Vernazza was a great spot to have lunch as there are a number of restaurants to choose from on the waterfront. Vernazza has a small beach which some people were swimming in but most were lounging along the rock walls of the harbour, enjoying the sun. We climbed up the hill behind the church, navigating the labyrinth like street, to enjoy the view over the harbour. 

Manarola

Riomaggiore

Monetrosso al Mare

Monterosso al Mare

Vernazza

Next stop on our train trip was Manarola, skipping over Corniglia as it’s the only town of the five that it’s not on the water, it sits high up on the cliffs. Manorola seems to be the town that is featured the most in photos of Cinque Terre, it has an iconic view over the small harbour with the colourful houses cascading down the cliffs. (although Vernazza and Riomaggiore looked quite similar)

There is surprisingly a great kids playground where you’ll find the best vantage point for photos of Manarola, so the girls had a great time playing while we enjoyed the view. There is a restaurant in prime position to take in the view but they don’t take reservations so there seemed to be a constant line up of people waiting to get a table. We didn’t bother trying but we did stop off for gelato in Manarola, which kept the girls in high spirits for our last stop in Riomaggiore.

Riomaggiore is probably the smallest of the five towns, with a little harbour and narrow streets. Here, we got a drink and sat on the rocks while Braino had a quick dip in the water. There is a rocky beach around the headland but he just jumped in off the rocks in the harbour where most people were swimming. By this stage it was late in the afternoon and the sun was starting to go down, it was very relaxing just sitting on the rocks, people watching and soaking in the atmosphere. 

Vernazza

A few things to note about visiting Cinque Terre with kids: 

The trains are the most convenient way to see all the towns. You can catch a ferry from La Spezia to the various towns but I didn’t really look into that option too much. You definitely can’t access the tows via a car. The trains left regularly and but were very busy. The streets around the train stations are also very busy and crowded. 

We purchases a train passes from https://card.parconazionale5terre.it/ We did have train officials check our passes too, so I’d recommended being prepared with a screen shot of your train pass on your phone.

It only takes about 15 minutes to get from La Spezia to Riomaggiore (the first town) and then it’s only 5 - 10 minutes on the train between each town.

While it is a lot of walking around and enjoying the view, the girls still enjoyed themselves. It helped planning to have swim at Monterosso and the promise of a gelato is always helpful. 

You can hike between each of the town, I would actually love to visit again and do the hike It does require a hiking permit and it’s very steep in parts so we didn’t priorize it with the girls being so young. 

While you can find accommodation in any of the five towns of Cinque Terre, we were pretty happy with our decision to stay in La Spezia and just catch the train out as a day trip. Catching the busy trains with your luggage would be pretty uncomfortable and then locating your accommodation in the steep, narrow, maze like streets would also be a challenge. We came across a lady who was lost and struggling to find her accommodation in Vernazza,

FRANCE - Pont du Gard, An Ancient Roman Aqueduct

After our stay in Carcassone, we started to make our way across to Italy, where we are planning to spend a large chunk of time. We had planned to break up the long drive with an overnight stay in a town called Brignoles. It’s essentially just a small town along the the highway. We chose it because the hotel was very cheap and we knew we didn’t have a lot of time or the budget to spend a more fancy city like Nice or Cannes on the coast. 

But on the way to Brignoles, we made a stop at another UNESCO World Heritage site - Pont du Gard, an ancient Roman aqueduct that was built in the first century AD to carry water to the Roman settlement of Nemausus (what’s now known as Nimes). 

Roman Aqueducts are such an incredible feat of architectural engineering. Pont du Gard has been somewhat restored and reinforced but it’s amazing to think that this structure as been standing for over 2000 years. 

If we had more time, I would have also liked to have visited the town of Nimes. There are some fantastic roman ruins there too - including a well preserved colosseum. 

Visiting Pont du Gard is free although we did pay around 9 euros to park in the carpark of the museum. Entry to the museum was another additional cost, and we skipped this, but there are toilets, a gift shop and a cafe alongside the the museum. 

It was about a 5 - 10 minute walk to the aqueduct from the museum and carpark and you can walk across the lower level of the aqueduct and across the banks of the river below. There were a much of people swimming from the little beach area and large group of kayakers paddled past in what looked like a guided tour. 

Even though the skies were blue and the sun was shining, it was a little windy and chilly, but it did look like a great place for a swim, hike and a picnic. 

FRANCE - Cite de Carcassonne, A Fortified Medieval City

We were having so much fun relaxing in Salou that we considering cancelling our time in Carcassone, France and extending our time at La Siesta Salou Camping Resort. However, we realised that a) the accommodation in Carcassone was no longer refundable and b) there wasn’t any availability at the resort park. But I’m glad we continued on to Carcassone! I had only seen a few photos prior to decided to add it to our itinerary, so I was surprised to realise how extensive the ancient citadel is. We had a fantastic time exploring the walled medieval city.

The fortress has over 2,500 years of history and was occupied by Romans, Visigoth and Crusaders before it fell into ruins and was nearly demolished in the mid 19th century. Thankfully it was restored and serves as one of the best examples of a medieval fortified city in France.

Inside the fortified walls are the Basilica of Saint Nazaire and the Chateau comtal de Carcassonne and many restaurants, crafts shops including leather work, soaps, perfume, jewellery and souvenirs. There is even a haunted house attraction where actors in costumes chase you for the thrill of it - we did not do it, although the girls were intrigued, if not a little confused. by the whole concept.

Carcassone was also has a Museum of the Inquisition, which details some of the gruesome torture that was inflicted during the inquisitions that took place in Carcassone against the Cathars in the 12th Century. We did not go into this either - entirely not appropriate for kids.

We did walk around the ramparts of the Chateau and took in the surrounding views. And were awe struck by the stain glass windows and vaulted ceilings of the Basilica. I thought that the Chateau could of had more historical information and displays, it had a lot in the way of architectural information.

It’s free to enter the fortified city, there’s a few hotels and even a few residents that live within the walls. But we did pay 11 Euro per adult to enter the Chateau area. It was well worth it to see the view over the medieval city and the newer part of Carcassonne from the ramparts. ( Kids are FREE )

The concentric circles you can

We stayed in the newer part of Carcassonne ( pronounced Car-Ca-Son if you were wondering ) in a lovely two bedroom apartment. It was quite charming in itself and we were able to walk across to the medieval fortress quite easily. One full day was definitely enough to explore both the new and old areas of Carcassone, but the whole area surrounding it looked like it would be worth exploring - lots of vineyards, quaint towns and ancient sites.

SPAIN - Beachside Holiday Resort Living in Salou

After Huesca we drove south to the coast of Spain, to the beach side resort town of Salou. Salou is just south of Tarragona and about an hour and a half south of Barcelona. 

We when booked accommodation in this area, we were looking for a family friendly resort that was close to the beach and La Siesta Salou Camping Resort turned out to be perfect! Just what we were hoping for. 

Salou is home to a large theme park / water park called Port Adventura and it had a similar vibe to Surfer Paradise on the Gold Coast in Australia. Very much orientated towards either tourists or retirees. But we didn’t mind, all we wanted to do was enjoy the sunshine, the beach and the pools of the resort - we had some fantastic weather for it too, although the day that we arrived there was a huge downpour and the roads were nearly flooded as we arrived into Salou. 

We had three full days in Salou and the first day happened to coincide with when my sister, Claire was going to be in Barcelona as part of a work trip. We made plans to drive up towards Barcelona and then park at an outlet mall near the airport where we then caught the train into the main train station of Barcelona. Claire was conveniently staying in a hotel above the train station. 

It was great to see her and catch up over lunch, but we decide to head back to the resort for the afternoon to make the most of the pools and the hot weather, rather than explore Barcelona. Do I regret not seeing more of Barcelona when we had the opportunity? Maybe a little. The kids definitely had more fun swimming but in hindsight perhaps I could have spent the afternoon in Barcelona with Claire, while Braino took the kids back and I could have made my way back later in the afternoon. But to be honest, Claire had already seen a lot of Barcelona on previous holidays and my brain was in relaxation mode. 

La Siesta Salou Camping Resort had camping, caravan and cabin facilities with five different pools, a playground, a kids club, restaurants. It was only two blocks back from the beach. The pools were amazing, we had a lot of fun swimming in them all together. Hallie especially loved the waterslides. We were staying in a little holiday cabin so we bought groceries and cooked a lot of our meals in our cabin. We did eat at the buffet on the first day but we found that the buffet was rather expensive if your kids don’t tend to eat much. 

There was a family of kittens that roamed the area around the cabins. They looked quite healthy and were very friendly, Rooney loved playing with them. They did get a bit too cheeky and tired to come inside our cabin on a few occasions. 

The beach of Salou was amazing! On one of the days the weather was absolutely perfect, we spent close to 4 hours at the beach! We got the girls a little inflatable board to ride the waves on, which they loved. The waves and the water temp were perfect for the kids, I stayed in the water myself for hours which is quite rare. 

SPAIN - Following the Pyrenees Mountains South to Huesca

We left San Sebastian and drove south, following the Pyrenees Mountains to the town of Huesca. We only stayed for one night in Huesca, mainly to break up the drive to Salou, on the south coast of Spain, which would have been a 6 hours drive from San Sebastian to Salou.

The drive out of San Sebastian through the mountains was unexpectedly stunning! The soaring mountains are dotted with clusters of houses, making up picturesque villages that overlook lush valleys below.

Braino was particularly impressed by the highways and tunnels that cut through the mountains, making it rather quick and easy drive. I can imagine the original roads through the mountain passes would have been a much more slower and winding.  

The landscape eventually levelled out to a hilly yet arid climate, it reminded me of when we drove Route 66 in the USA, but with a little more greenery. Throughout the valley there are villages, many of which looks abandoned, perched atop the hills. They looked so intriguing, it would be a fascinating area to explore with a small camper van. 

We’ve done a number of iconic drives around the world, like the Icefield Parkway in the Canadian Rockies, the Great Ocean Road in Victoria, Route 66 in The USA and obviously now a lot fo the Wild Atlantic Way in Ireland, but Braino and I agreed that the drive from San Sebastian to Huesca was surprisingly up there amongst the best drives, in terms of the dramatic landscapes and scenery. I only wish we had stopped to take more photos.

The town of Huesca itself was a relatively large regional city with its own hilltop old town area, with the cathedral perched at the top. We spent the afternoon wandering the streets and quickly realised that an afternoon siesta is a real thing in this part of Spain. The street felt totally deserted between the hours of 2pm and 6pm, but came alive as the sun started to set. The town of Huesca even has a bull flighting ring that is still in use throughout the year. 

Thankfully, good old Burger King was open and it had a surprisingly large indoor playground that girls enjoyed. 

We stayed at the well located Hotel Pedro I de Aragon and had a room on the top level that included a terrace that over looked the old town area, up to the cathedral. 

SPAIN - San Sebastian, a beautiful urban beach

We departed Dublin and flew into Bordeaux where we picked up our hire car. (I will do a another blogpost about our hire car experiences in Ireland and Europe) and then drove to San Sebastian in the North-Eastern corner of Spain.

We actually stayed about 20 minutes out of the centre of San Sebastian, in a small residential area. We were able to find a comfortable two bedroom apartment within our budget and it was interesting to experience a residential neighbour - the area had a number of great playgrounds.

We travelled into San Sebastian on the two full days we had there and unfortunately, the weather was a little cloudy and rainy on both days. Definitely not the cosmopolitan European summer vibes we had been envisioning after being in Ireland for so long. But we still had a great time exploring the city.

San Sebastian City Hall

Beach of La Concha 

Beach of La Concha

The girls loved splashing in the water and playing in the sand, regardless of the cloudy weather. Both days we went to La Concha Beach which is the beach that is most central to the town.

We also found two great playgrounds in the city centre. One outside the San Telmo Museoa (Museum of Basque Enthography and History) and the other in front of the San Sebastian City Hall, along the waterfront next to the Carousel.

We also enjoyed walking around the Old Town area, with it’s narrow streets, impressive churches and stunning Plaza de la Constitution. Our walk continued around marina and out past the aquarium.

While it would have been amazing to have seen it on a sunny day but San Sebastian still left an impression on us. I see it more as a honeymoon sort of destination but in saying that, I wouldn’t tell people not to bring their kids. The beach was great for kids and the city was really flat and easy to walk around, while the surrounding area is full of beautiful lush green mountains. San Sebastien has the feel of a large city, with restaurants, museums and shopping district, while having a beautiful beach in an incredibly central location.

COUNTY ANTRIM - The Giants Causeway

The Giant’s Causeway is a remarkable geological location that is steeped in mythology and legends. Located on County Antrim’s coast in Northern Ireland, the iconic hexagonal basalt columns that stretch out into the ocean were believed to have been created by the Irish giant Finn MacCool to face his Scottish rival, the giant Benandonner. In a more geological sense, the basalt columns were created by ancient lava flows. Similar basalt columns can be found across the ocean on the coast of Scotland.

While the coastline and pathways down to the causeway are free and accessible to everyone, we opted to pay to use the visitor centre. It is admittedly a little on the expensive side, but this guarantees a parking spot in the dedicated carpark, access to the very informative displays in visitor centre and use of the audio guides, which the girls really loved! They received the kids version which had lots of stories and facts from the legend of the giants.

We walked down the blue track from the visitor centre, which takes the lower path along the shoreline. We fully intended to take the red path on the way back that requires you to climb up the hillside and follow the path at the top of the cliffs, but we spent so much time at the causeway, we decided to return back up the quicker blue track.

There is a shuttle bus that ferries people along the road of the blue path, it’s 1 pound per person and is ideal for anyone with mobility issues but we found the walk to be really easy and enjoyable for the kids.

Even though I’ve known about the Giant’s Causeway since I was a kid, I kept my expectations low, fearing it would be over hyped. But I was very wrong. It was very busy with other tourists, but it really is a magical location. It’s amazing to be able to walk across all the basalt columns and enjoy the coastline stretching out on either side. It’s so much fun to simply explore the location and take in the scenery. There were many other points of interest that we didn’t make it too, including the Giants Boots and Organ Pipe, you could really spend all day exploring the area if you are willing to do a lot of walking. We visited in the afternoon, after stopping at the Dark Hedges and Dunluce Castle, and spent about 2.5 hours there, in hindsight we should have allocated a lot more time.

COUNTY ANTRIM - Dark Hedges and Dunluce Castle

From our accommodation in County Donegal, we ventured across into Northern Ireland to see some of the iconic sites: Dark Hedges, Dunluce Castle and The Giant’s Causeway. Technically Northern Ireland is apart of the United Kingdom, but we were able to easily cross the border in our car.

Our first stop was the Dark Hedges, an atmospheric tree lined road that has been made extra famous when it was featured in Game of Thrones, although it was already one of the most photographed locations in Northern Ireland. It also has a spooky ghost story about the Grey Lady who haunted the beech tree lined road.

My photos honestly don’t do it justice. It would look phenomenal at sunrise or sunset with a zoom lens and fancy camera. I’ve just been using my iphone on this trip, and it’s been extremely convenient but this location (and many others) have made me pine for my old Canon 5Dmk3 and lens.

We parked in the nearby carpark of the Hedges Hotel (parking was approx 5 euro from memory) and this location will forever more be remembered as where Hallie and Rooney both slipped over in the mud, only seconds after Braino told them not to run on the muddy grassy. It was honestly like a scene from Funniest Home Videos, I could barely contain my laugher while Braino came close to loosing his cool. Thankfully we had the suitcases in the car, as we had checked out that morning, so we were able to change the girls into clean clothes. Crisis averted.

After the Dark Hedges, we travelled on to Dunluce Castle, a magnificent ruin from the 16th and 17th centuries. It was inhabited by both the feuding McQuillan and MacDonnell clans and dramatically sits in a rocky headland overlooking the ocean. This is probably my favourite castle ruin that we’ve visits in Ireland, the location is just spectacular! It was also used as a location in Game of Thrones, although with a lot more CGI.

COUNTY DONEGAL - A Drive Through the Countryside and Pub Lunch in Town

After we visited the Slieve League Cliffs, we drove back to the town of Donegal and I absolutely loved the countryside of Donegal. Donegal is one of the more remote counties in Ireland, tucked away in the Northwest corner, the northern end of the Wild Atlantic Way.

It felt so remote and untouched, windswept and ruggedly beautiful. It is one of the remaining Gaeltacht areas (Irish speaking areas) and is a land of towering rocky green mountains with sheep surrounding quaint solitary white farm houses.

We ate lunch at O’Donnells which is on the diamond area in the centre of Donegal town. It has a fantastic cost feel and a delicious menu, we could have stayed all afternoon listening to their classic rock playlist.

Afterwards we stopped in at Donegal Castle, which is located in the centre of town, which is worth a look.

We only spent 3 nights in County Donegal, one day visiting Slieve League and the other visiting the sights of Northern Ireland, but if I was to return to Ireland (and I certainly hope I do) I would dedicated a lot more time to exploring County Donegal.

We also did a drive one day from Galway to Westport in County Mayo, through the Connemara area and the scenery was absolutely stunning. Rocky peaks rising above lakes and remote valleys dotted with farmhouses. I would definitely prfioritize seeing more of County Mayo and County Sligo too.

COUNTY DONEGAL - Visiting the Slieve League Cliffs with Kids

The rugged, soaring cliffs of Slieve League (or Sliabh Liag in Irish) are located in County Donegal in the far north west corner of the Republic of Ireland, near the town of Teelin. These magnificent cliffs are nearly three times as high as the Cliff of Moher and are much less touristy, although we found that the infrastructure that is in place for visitors makes them easily and safely accessible for families.

We parked in at the Sliabh Liag Cliff Experience & Visitor Centre where we then caught a shuttle bus up to the viewing platform on the edge of the cliffs. The bus trip is around 10 minutes and leaves every 20 minutes, no advanced bookings were required. There is also a cafe, toilets and information display located in the visitor centre. Alternatively, next door is the Slieve League Cliff Centre which offers similar facilities. \

The shuttle bus was 6 Euros per adult and 4 euro per child or 20 euros for families.

The other options are to walk from the visitor centres in Teelin to the viewing platform. This takes around 50 minutes and you’d be walking along the narrow windy roads that the cars and shuttle buses are driving along - definitely not ideal for kids.

There is a car park about 5 minutes past Teelin along Sliabh Liag Road, the same road that the shuttle buses travel along, but the car parks were limited and I believe it’s 5 euro to park there. If you were arriving very early in the morning it may be a good option. But it’s still about a 25 min walk to the viewing platform.

We were happy we opted for the shuttle bus, it’s definitely the most convenient and safest option for kids.

The panoramic views of the sea cliffs from the viewing platform are astonishing! And we felt quite safe with the basic fencing along the edge. We did decide to hike a little further up the stone steps that lead higher up the mountainside and the views became even more phenomenal. We could see people high up on the ridge of the nearby peak of the cliffs and the girls would have happily kept going higher but we got caught in the misty raincloud that swept in off the Atlantic Ocean. We made it back to the viewing platform where our shuttle bus was waiting to take a number of drenched sight-seers back to the visitor centres.

I would recommend wearing warm waterproof jackets and good walking shoes (although the girls were just wearing their crocs and they were fine, the girls pretty much love in them ). The wind was pretty wild and chilly and the rain clouds came over quite quickly. I’d suggest even bringing a change of clothes to keep in the car. Funnily enough, I left the accommodation without my rain jacket, thinking it was already in the car but thankfully Braino had his two jumpers / jackets in the car so I was able to wear one of his.

Slieve League would be an incredible location to do more of the extensive hikes (you can read more about hiking trails here) but taking the shuttle bus to the viewing point is certainly enough of an adventure with kids in tow.

COUNTY CLARE - Loop Head Lighthouse & Bridges of Ross

The Loop Head Lighthouse sits at the southern tip of the peninsula that makes up County Clare, at the mouth of what becomes the Shannon River. We drove down from Lahinch on a spectacular day with blue skies and warm sunshine.

For a small fee you can enter the lighthouse grounds which has a small museum display, coffee shop and toilet facilities. You can pay a small amount extra to climb to the top of the lighthouse but we opted not to. Instead we did a walk beyond the walls of the light grounds to the edge of the cliffs.

The cliffs are extremely high, with no fencing at all. I’ll admit, as much as it is breathtakingly beautiful and exhilarating to see the coastline stretch out either side and the Atlantic Ocean stretch out to the horizon, it’s also quite anxiety inducing. Our girls are really sensible and cautious and they behaved themselves really well, but it’s hard to escape intrusive thoughts of someone going over the edge. Braino was surprising brave, being memorised by the crashing waves below. May times I felt compelled to tell him to get back from the edge. We even saw a local man with a fishing rod and tackle box climb down to a precarious ledge to fish over the edge. We could see all the way to the mountains of the Dingle Peninsula to the south, it was really magical.

We stopped off at the nearby Bridges of Ross, which is another section of the coastline that has unique naturally formed arched bridges that cross parts of the cliff. You can see in last photo on the right Braino and the girls siting on top of the bridge section over the water below.

COUNTY CLARE - Kilkee Beach & Kilkee Cliffs

Kilkee is a picturesque beachside town around an hour south of where we were staying in Lahinch with stunning, and somewhat underrated, sea cliffs.

We actually came here on two different occasions to enjoy the beach on sunny days. The beach is a lovely sandy cove with calm water and the main street just one block back. It felt very much like a hidden gem, somewhere that’s been kept off the tourist radar; a summer destination for Irish families.

We would recommend it over Lahinch, where we stayed, as a beach destination. Lahinch is a small town with a large beach that is considered more of a surf beach, but it has a huge rock wall reinforcing the store line. At high tide the waves crash against the rocks and it can feel pretty wild. Kilkee Beach, being in a cove, felt a bit more protected and the town felt more spread out and walkable.

On the headland either side of the beach are the stunning sea cliffs. We only did a drive by after our day at the beach, pulling over for me to take some photos but there is a dedicated walking track along the top of cliffs.

I’ve been reading various facebook groups for Travel Tips in Ireland and many people lament how ‘touristy and over run’ the Cliffs of Moher can feel, with the huge numbers of tour buses that arrive each day. Many people say that the Kilkee cliffs are a much more authentic, lesser known option. While they didn’t seem as high as the Cliffs of Moher, they are still spectacular. (and don’t come with any admission. prices)

But I would recommended that if you’re able to venture of the track to Kilkee, then keep going south to the Loop Head Lighthouse which has even more incredible coastline scenery (read more about it in the next blog post)