Takayama

TAKAYAMA, JAPAN - Day 2 - Sanmachi Historic District

The second day that were were in Takayama was very rainy, it rained heavily for most of the morning. But we didn’t mind actually, the accommodation we were staying in was so spacious and lovely , it was nice to be able to spend some time indoors appreciating the house. 

We booked this guesthouse via booking.com and while the host / management team were very hands off, it was a really beautifully presented two storey house, in a very authentic Japanese style. The kitchen and dining room had a large table, the bathroom was big and modern and there was spacious lounge room that led out to a landscaped courtyard. Upstairs was two bedrooms, although they were only separated by sliding screens. Both had tatami mats. Which seems to be the typical bedroom layout in Japan. One bedroom had futon beds, the girls sleep in this one, while the other room had two western style double beds, which were very comfortable. 

The girls play so well together and with all the travel and moving around, it’s been helpful to give them some free time to just play. It definitely keeps everyone in a good mood on the days that we are out and about exploring and on the days were we are traveling to the next destination. It’s also been surprisng to see how well they play with the small amount of toys that we have with us. We then dedicated a bit of time to ‘school work’, catching up on maths and english units and some quizzes about what ever learnt about Japan. 

Once the rain cleared up in the afternoon, we all went out for a walk around the Sanmachi area. There is a number of blocks that have beautifully preserved wooden buildings that date back to the Edo period, many of which are sake breweries, ryokans and artisan craft shops. 

Takayama is the kind of town that you can just wander around and explore. It wasn’t very busy although there we lots of sovenier shops and more dedicated artisan boutiques. Hallie found a t-shirt that featured a design of godzilla rising up out of the ocean in the scene Hokusai, ‘Great Wave Off Kanagawa’ and Rooney found a cute t-shirt with her favourite Japanaese icon - Maneki-neko the beckoning cat.

Takayama is also home to Hida beef and Braino and I samples the best ‘beef on a skewer from a street vendor ‘ while walking around the streets of Takayama. We also sat down and had dinner at a restaurant called Kajibashi which had delicious Japanese cuisine.

Overall, while Tayakama is a little off the beaten track, I would still recommend it to families who are looking for a slower paced experience in Japan. There was quite a lot more to see and do that what we did, like the morning markets, the Showa-Kan Museum and the Retro Museum as well as the nearby Onsen town of Gero. We were there at the very end of May which is spring, leading into Summer, but I would love to see it in Autumn and Winter as well.

TAKAYAMA, JAPAN - Day 1 - Hida No Sato Open Air Museum

Takayama was another destination I had also seen photos of when researching Japan, the images of the dark wooden buildings from the Edo Period of Takayama’s old town have been stuck in my head as a must see location in Japan. I’m pleased to say that the old town area and the surroundings just as beautiful, if not more beautiful in person!

Takayama is located north east of Kyoto, (and north west of Tokyo) in the mountainous Gifu Prefecture. We travelled via an Nohi Highway Bus, which departed from Higashi-Umeda Station in Osaka (going via Kyoto Station) and arriving at the JR Takayama Station / Nohi Bus Terminal. From there we only had to walk 10 minutes to our accommodation. As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, we have been very impressed by the standard and ease of the highway buses in Japans. They are comfortable and really reasonably priced. Alternatively we would had had to change trains a few times to get from Osaka to Takayama, potentially including a bullet train.

Another wonderful thing about Takayama is that it’s a small walkable town. Once we arrived we didn’t need to worry about getting around town via public transport, it was lovely just to walk around. On the morning of our first full day, we walked about 30 minutes out of town to the Hida No Sato Open Air Museum (or Hida Folk Village) which was a fantastic location to learn about the history of the Hida Region.

The Hida Folk Village is a collection of historical houses that have been relocated from various villages around the Hida region. The houses were built in the Edo period (from 1603 - 1868) and many are astonishing examples of the gassho-zukuri farmhouses that have the steep thatched roofs, able to withstand the heavy winter snow.

It was quite incredible to be able to walk around inside each house and learn about how people lived in the Hida region, especially how they raised silk worms and expertly wove kimonos from the harvested silk. The indoor fire places were even lit and we could climb up to the top levels of the houses. It was like stepping back in time. One thing to note is that you have to take your shoes off when entering all the house, we were continuously talking off sneakers and putting them back on, so my tip would be to wear slip on shoes.

The girls were kept entertained by the stamp collecting quiz books that we were able to pick up at the ticket office for 200 yen each. We followed the map around to all the locations that had a question to answer and a stamp to collect. It was great way to keep kids engaged and the book included an English version of the quiz. The girls got a small souvenir as a prize once they completed it all.

If you are even more interested in the historic homes of the region, there is a day tour you can do from Takayama to Shirakawa-go and Gokayama, two UNESO World Heritage Sites that are living villages of Gassho Zukuri Farmhouses. People are till living in them today, and you can even stay overnight in a thatched roof farmhouse. It would really be amazing to see, but I couldn’t justify the cost or the time spent on the bus against everyone else’s level of interest. The Hida Folk Village was no doubt just as good and much easier to reach from Takayama with kids.

Getting to Hida No Sato: We walked there from our accommodation, which was near the Red Cross Hospital in Takayama. It only took 30 mins and the kids were fine, even with the steeper hill towards the end of the walk. However we caught the bus back, the Sarubobo Bus regularly runs from the Takayama Nohi Bus Centre to the Folk Village and back. Fare is 210 yen one way.

The cost was 700 yen per adult (roughly AUD $7) and 200 yen for children although Hallie and Rooney were free as they are 6 and under. The stamp books were 200 yen each. We didn’t book tickets in advance, they were available for purchase at the entry booth.