Visiting the Skellig Islands off the coast of the Ring of Kerry was one of the most exhilarating experiences. It was an incredible day trip however, due to the dangerous terrain on the island, it isn’t suitable for kids under the age of 12 so it was a solo mission for me. Braino and the girls spent the morning at the nearby town of Waterville enjoying the beach.
The Skellig Islands are a UNESCO World Heritage site with an ancient monastery at the top of the big island - Skellig Michael. I once heard it described as Irelands answer to Machu Picchu, so it was instantly added to my bucket list.
I was very lucky in terms of booking the trip late ( it can sell out months in advance ) and then having favourable weather on the day of the trip ( many landing tours have to be cancelled on the day of due to rough weather ).
The group of boats left the harbour of Portmagee around 8:30am and it took roughly an hour to travel over to the big island, Skelling Michael. We travelled past Little Skellig, the smaller island that is home to a colony of gannets (sea birds). Little Skellig is sheer rock and its not possible to dock there and climb the rocks, it’s strictly a protected sanctuary for the birds.
There were 12 people aboard the boat I was on and there were approximately 3 other boats that departed at the same time as us. Once we arrived on Skellig Michael, we were given a safety induction by one of the guides that live and work on the island throughout the summer months.
Skelling Michael is also the annual home to a colony of puffins, who arrive on the island every year to breed. As we hiked up the steep stone steps, the hillside was swarming with the incredibly cute little birds, who make their nests in burrows amongst the rocks. I visited on the 23rd of July and the guides were predicting that the puffins were due to migrate soon. They are usually all gone by the second week of August, so again, I was very lucky to have seen all the puffins. I can’t say I’ve ever been much of a birdwatcher but I’m kind of obsessed with puffins now.
After continuing on the steep path up the side of the island, we reached the ancient monastery at the top. The collection of beehive huts that overlook Little Skellig and back across to the Kerry and Dingle Peninsulas, date back to 7th century and where inhabited by up to 12 monks at a time.
The monks came to the island in search of solitude and a simple life were they could live a deeply spiritual existence, spending their days in mediation and at harmony with nature. They caught fish and collected birds eggs and had small vegetable plots. At one point they had a cow living on the island that they bought over from the mainland. The monks collected fire wood on the mainland and brought it back in row boats. Simply rowing a boat over from the mainland would have been a feat in and of itself, not to mention constructing the walls and huts of the monastery out of stone.
There were two guides stationed at the monastery who gave a talk every 20 minutes or so. I found it so interested that the three guides who live on the island for 2 weeks at a time on a rotating roster were all women, older the 45 years old. What an interesting job and lifestyle that would be.
Skellig Michael features heavily as a location in Star Wars: The Force Awakens and The Last Jedi. I was fascinated to learn how the production team were able to coordinate a whole film crew to come out to the island. Apparently it only took 4 days and the crew were blessed with very good weather. Here are a few behind the scenes videos to give you some more insight into the filming.
Star Wars: The Last Jedi – Exclusive Behind the Scenes in Ireland
All up, visiting Skellig Michael was such a humbling, awe-inspiring experience, I feel so blessed to have been able to witness such a wild, otherworldly location.
A few tips for visiting Skelling Michael:
I booked through a company called Skellig Rocks and I would highly recommend them. But here are some other options that leave from Portmagee as I had to try a few before I found availability. Skellig Island Tours, Skellig Michael Cruises, Skellig Coast Adventures.
I booked a week or two in advance and got very lucky in securing a spot on a day that was convenient for our travels. However, if you were only in Ireland for a short time with a fixed itinerary, I would suggest booking well in advance but allow some flexibility in our itinerary if the weather is unsuitable. You may be able to try again the following day.
The landing tours run from May to September however, if you do want to see the puffins, you should plan to go before the end of July.
All up the tour was 130 euros, I paid 65 euro online to secure the booking and then 65 in cash to Derek the boat guide at the end of the trip. Make sure you have cash as it’s the most convenient way to pay the balance.
If your trip is cancelled your deposit will be refunded. You’ll be notified via email the morning of the trip, maybe as early as 6am - 7am.
I stayed in Killarney the night before and it took roughly 90 minutes to reach Portmagee, however I would recommended staying in Portmagee or other close towns like Waterville, Cahersiveen.
If you have hiking boots, these will be the most appropriate shoes, however runners or walking shoes will be fine. No sandals, slip-on shoes or heels.
Wear layers, including a raincoat or waterproof outer layer. I had a raincoat, jumper and tshirt and was rather hot by the time I reached the top but was warn enough on the boat on the way over.
Suncream and hat is recommended and obviously your own water too.
Bring a packed lunch or snacks as there aren’t any cafes or food stalls on the island. However, it’s advised not to have large breakfast or coffee in the morning to avoid any seasickness. If you are prone to seasickness, it’s best to come equipped with any mediation you may want to use. A few people on my trip were seasick.
There is a toilet on the island at the bottom near where the boats dock, so I would suggest going when you have the opportunity as you won’t want to be climbing up and down the steep steps just to use the bathroom.
A moderate level of fitness is required. It’s advised not to climb the stone step pathway if you suffer from vertigo or balance issues. It takes around 45 minutes to climb to the top at the slowish pace, there is no rush, you can take your time.
We arrived on the island by 9:30am and we departed at at 12:15pm. I felt like that was plenty of time to reach the top and enjoy the views.
